Your guide to achieving 25 times faster print speeds (1000 mm/s!) from an Ender 3
Let’s see, where to start?
I used to have a stock, slow, boring Ender 3 V2 and now I can technically print a Bency in under 4 minutes.
Your silly stock Creality Ender 3 V2 printer maxes out at a flow rate of 9 mm^3/s – or ~100mm/s printing at a 0.2mm height and 0.45mm extrusion width.
But if you’re me, you can push over 52 mm^3/s (aka 579mm/s at 0.2mm height & 0.45mm width… or 1,303 mm/s at 0.1mm height & 0.45mm width).
I’ll do the math for you, that’s 5.7 times more plastic pumping out of my printer in the same amount of time.
52mm^3/s is technically fast enough to print a benchy in under 4 minutes.
Of course, at those speeds flow rate is no longer what limits your print speed.
But we’ll get to that.
(And yes, here’s proof that a Benchy can be printed in sub-4 minutes, first accomplished by 3DPrintFun.)
So, how do we build a printer that can print at 1000 mm/s without breaking?
There are four main things you need to do to 3D print at crazy fast speeds.
- Boost your volumetric flow rate to at least 45mm^3 per second
- Overhaul your cooling system
- Get your bed to move fast enough by boosting your stepper motor torque, cutting weight, and reducing friction
- Upgrade to Klipper firmware (then tune, tune, tune it).
Depending on if you get a deal on your starting printer, you should be able to do all of this and buy the printer for under $600.
Let’s start at the first bottleneck to print speed and look at a low cost way of boosting speeds by 33% – even if you ignore everything else.
Increase volumetric flow rate
The volumetric flow rate is the total plastic you can push through your hotend.
And your hotend is the first bottleneck caused by the Creality printers.
- The extruder gears suck (so does the extruder arm) and
- The hotend is “meh” powered at 40w.
Here’s what you need to do to boost your flow rate:
- Get a (much) better hotend
- Upgrade to a high-end extruder assembly
- Boost everything by 30% with a Bondtech CHT nozzle.
We’re going to start with the end… go buy at least a 0.6mm CHT nozzle .
No, you can’t get them on Amazon.
The CHT nozzle uses a patented (and super cool) design that splits your filament into three smaller pieces.
Smaller pieces means more surface area, which means you can heat the center of the filament easier, allowing you to push 30% more filament.
It’s literally the cheapest, easiest upgrade to boosting your max printer speed.
I could keep going but you should just go get one at Slice Engineering.
That is, if you plan on upgrading your hotend to a V6 style mount like the ones I recommend below (you should).
If you’re sticking with a stock hotend, aka “MK8” (Creality) mounted version, you can get a CHT for it direct from Bondtec.
The CHT is offered in both but they’re not interchangeable.
Next, you’ll need to upgrade your hotend.
My choice was the Phaetus Rapido.
It comes in high flow and Ultra High Flow.
What’s the difference?
The high flow comes with a “Volcano” length nozzle and a collar, allowing for a larger melt zone.
Go UHF if you’re not planning on getting the CHT. If you do get the CHT, it doesn’t matter if you go high flow or ultra high flow – you’ll be swapping out the nozzle anyways.
But what’s so special about the rapido?
See the white cylinder just above the nozzle?
That’s a 360° wrap-around heater rated at 100 watts – 2.5 times more powerful than your stock printer.
This allows a much more direct heat transfer and heats up in literally seconds from dead cold.
Last up, the extruder.
The stock extruder on an Ender 3 series (up until the “Ender 3 S1 printers) is trash.
If it’s not cracked, it will be.
Also, the teeth on the extruder gears are flat and crap.
After a ton of research and trying to talk myself into the Alibaba drop-shipped “red” all metal extruders, I just couldn’t do it.
We need speed, and speed demands a tight grip on our filament.
So I went with the Micro Swiss Bowden Dual Gear Extruder. It’s the only thing I really couldn’t compromise on budget.
- Fits: Bowden extruder machines, Fits NEMA 17 size stepper motors
- Made in USA by Micro Swiss
Now, the right thing would be to buy a direct drive extruder with built-in pancake motor.
And it might be the way I have to go.
But for now, we’re seeing how far we can get on a Bowden setup as it saves considerable mass off the print head.
Overhaul your cooling system
You’ll need to upgrade three things:
- Your cooling system (I used the HeroMe Gen 6, but it was a total pain to build and would recommend trying the compact Manta system)
- Your part cooling fans (I used WINSINN 5015's)
- Your hotend cooling
You can reuse old wiring but be sure to match new voltages or use a step down buck converter to turn the stock 24v into 12v.
Boost torque, cut weight, and reduce friction
As of now, this is where I am. I’ve included some resources for you to use as I continue researching and testing.
Step 1: Boost torque
Step 2: Cut weight
There are always another few grams you can shave off your weight.
That said, here’s where I’m at (so far).
The Creality Ender 3 V2 comes with a glass bed weighing in at ~510g. The problem is, at high speed that’s a lot of mass to be throwing back and forth on your Y-axis.
My first crack at fixing this was to buy the official Official Creality Flexible Magnetic PEI Sheet.
It cut ~180g off of my weight but I think we can still do better and it seems there are several new, cheaper, and (possibly) lighter options:
- ATTENTION BEFORE USE：Firstly, please make sure the bottom of the soft magnetic sticker and the top...
- ALL NEW FUNCTIONALITY: Introducing the first ever removable, magnetically secured, build surface for...
- EASY MODEL REMOVAL: The first 3D printing surface designed with model removal in mind. This surface...
- CUSTOMIZABLE: The flexible surface can easily be cut to any demensions making it perfect for all...
- SIMPLE INSTALLATION & UNIVERSAL: Build surface comes with upper magnetic build surface and lower...
- Size - 235x235mm/9.2x9.2in. Applicable models: Ender 3/ Ender 3 Pro/ Ender 3S/ Ender 3v2/ CR 20/ CR...
- Excellent Adhesion & Removable - Upgrades magnetic build surface provides the best adhesion. Once...
- Easy to Install - The build surface adhesive comes with upper magnetic build surface and lower...
- Universal - Ender 3/ Ender 3 Pro/ Ender 3S/ Ender 3v2/ CR 20/ CR 20 Pro/ Voxelab Aquila/Voxelab...
- Note - If you have any question or need technical support about the product, Please press "Ask a...
- Flexible, removable, can stick to magnetics very well. High strength and heat resistance. (Note:...
- Compatible with PLA、PETG、PEEK、ABS and any other filaments.
- No more tape, no more glue, no more shovel, and release your printing anxiety.
- Easy to adhere to the printing surface, easy to remove the prints, flex slightly to pop your print...
- When used in a 3D printing application, PEI is excellent because it can withstand the numerous heat...
Step 3: Reduce friction
At high speeds there’s one thing for certain: you’re going to smoke the V-wheels on a stock Ender 3 series printer.
I’m currently testing various linear rails. While Amazon has several options (top 3 listed below) but they can be hit-or-miss, so we’ll be looking into other vendor’s options as well.
- ✅【HIGH Z‑AXIS ACCURACY】-- Improved Z‑axis accuracy, which can reduce Z‑axis...
- ✅【HIGH STRENGTH & HARDNESS】-- The product is made of selected materials, with high strength...
- ✅【IMPROVE SURFACE EFFECT】-- The slider can be moved easily to improve the surface effect of...
- ✅【PRINTER EQUIPMENT PARTS】-- With small size and light weight, especially suitable for small...
- ✅【PERFECT REPLACEMENT】-- Great workmanship, perfect replacement for the old one and has a long...
- 【Application】:This Ender 3 series linear rail bracket is widely compatible with Ender 3 V2,Ender...
- 【X-axis Upgrade】:This conversion plate allows you to upgrade your 3d printer's X-axis with...
- 【Linear Motion Advantage】:Upgrading the POM wheels with linear guide will highly improve print...
- 【Easy Installation】: No firmware or wiring modification.Just bolt on the bracket with included...
- 【Long Life and Less Maintenance】:Compared to V slot POM wheels ,stainless steel linear rail...
- Upgrades the Ender 3 Y axis linear motion system for superior performance
- Eliminates backlash and wheel binding to improve the overall print quality
- Available as either a single or dual rail configuration for maximum bed stability
- Steel MGN12 rails and ball bearings reduce maintenance due to low wear and tear
Be sure to sign up for updates as we work.
Until then, check out this printer by 3dprinterfun hitting 1000 mm/s.